Which of These Popular Natural Diamond Shapes and Cuts Is Right For Your Engagement Ring?

The heart, soul and star of an engagement ring is the natural diamond center stone. The shape of the diamond dominates the look of a ring and sets the tone for the overall design. “What diamond shape are you looking for?” is often the first thing you will be asked about in a jewelry boutique or when you are searching a label’s collection online. The question might make you ask, “What exactly is a diamond shape?” The term refers to the geometric outline of a diamond at its girdle or middle point between the top and bottom. 

Sometimes the terms shape and cut are synonymously used at the end of a diamond’s name such as “cushion shape” or “emerald cut.” This usage is correct, but the word cut is also a gemological term and one of the famous 4Cs—color, cut, clarity and carat weight. In the 4Cs context, cut is the grade used to review how well a lapidary has cut a diamond. 

There are just two umbrella categories for diamond shapes. Round diamonds alone form one category, because they are far and away the most popular shape. All the other diamond shapes, including emerald, cushion, pear, oval and marquise, are referred to as fancy shapes. These groupings stem from the fact that natural diamonds generally come in the form of an octahedron which looks like two pyramids attached at their bases. These rough diamonds are split in half and cut into round brilliants. Rough diamonds in other shapes are analyzed by gem cutters who decide what shape would be suit the natural form.

Oval

The oval is an artistic cousin of the round brilliant. It reflects light almost as dramatically with 58 facets. The advantage ovals have over rounds is an elongating quality. The gem elegantly reaches up the finger. Like so many fancy diamond shapes, ovals came into fashion during the early years of the 20^th century when gem-cutting techniques advanced and lapidaries could refine the curves in the gems. Ovals, have the same versatility as round brilliants. They fit beautifully in minimalist designs, maximalist clusters and artistic creations.

Oval Diamonds Fit beautifully in minimalist designs, maximalist clusters and artistic creations.

Penny Preville: Oval Ring

Brent Neale: Oval Diamond Gypsy Wildflower Ring

KATKIM: Oval Diamond Trace Ring

Harry Winston: The One Oval-Shaped Diamond Micropavé Engagement Ring

Briony Raymond: Sutton Diamond Solitaire

Reinstein Ross: Lightdance Oval White Diamond Ring in 18K Alpine Gold

Repossi: Blast Ring in Pink Gold

Marlo Laz: Alexandra Engagement Ring

Bea Bongiasca: Ten/Ten Diamond Ring

Round

A round diamond on a simple band is the iconic image of an engagement ring. Think of the emoji for an engagement ring on your phone. It’s a round diamond. While round diamonds have been in existence for hundreds of years, the shape became a big sparkler when it was redesigned in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky. His ingenious arrangement of 58 facets caused light beams to bounce from the pavilion back through the crown in a way it had never done previously. On top of their great light, rounds, sometimes referred to as round brilliants, are versatile in designs. Rounds look classic in simple settings and blend harmoniously in artistic or elaborate designs.

Julia Garner’s round diamond engagement ring. (Instagram @juliagarnerofficial)

De Beers

Margaret Qualley’s round diamond engagement ring. (Instagram @margaretqualley)

Sophie Bille Brahe’s Celestine Ring

Stephen Webster

A ROUND DIAMOND ON A SIMPLE BAND IS THE ICONIC IMAGE OF AN ENGAGEMENT RING.

Tiffany and Co: Pavé Tiffany Setting Ring

Sophie Bille Brahe: Celestine Ring

Thelma West: Sugarcane Diamond Ring

Harry Winston: Winston Blossom Diamond Engagement Ring

Forevermark: Forever Icon

De Beers: Caress Round Brilliant Diamond Ring

Van Cleef & Arpels: Couture Solitaire

Retrouvai: Classic Short Impetus Puzzle Ring

Briony Raymond: Diamond Halo Sloan Ring

Pamela Love: Keres Ring

Stephen Webster: Forget Me Knot Solitaire Ring

Single Stone: Chloe Ring

Alison Lou: Round Diamond Engagement Ring

Cartier: Trinity Ruban Solitaire

Cartier: Love Solitaire

Nikos Koulis: Oui Ring

Lola Fenhirst:Diamond Ring

Cushion

The pillow-like profile of cushion shaped diamonds inspired their name. Cushions are usually squares, but they come in rectangles as well. Both styles have curved sides and rounded corners. The curves on the gem bounce the light around and give it an excellent amount of brilliance. The chunky style still has the feeling of a vintage shape that reflects its roots in the eighteenth century. During the age of candlelight, cushions where among the most prevalent diamond shapes in jewelry.

THE CURVES ON CUSHION CUT DIAMONDS BOUNCE THE LIGHT AROUND AND GIVE IT AN EXCELLENT AMOUNT OF BRILLIANCE.

Neil Lane: Couture Design Cushion-Cut Diamond, Platinum Engagement Ring

Jade Trau: Sylvie Solitaire Ring

Penny Preville: Diana Elongated Cushion

Reinstein Ross: Ribbon Cushion Cut Diamond Ring in 20K Peach Gold

Kwiat: Diamond Engagement Ring with a Channel Set Baguette Diamond Band

Brent Neale: Cushion Diamond Gypsy with Half-Moon Diamond Sides

Pear

Voluptuous lopsided pear shape diamonds have been an elegant part of jewelry since the 15^thcentury. Modern pears with 57 facets have a long history of appearing in engagement rings, but nothing like the way they are featured today. Designers are playing around with the lopsided shape setting it sideways and akimbo to make all kinds of fresh looks. When they are mounted traditionally with the rump down and point up, designers make them look fresh with little flourishes. A few designers have flipped the script and put the point down and rump up. All ways work.

PEAR SHAPE DIAMONDS HAVE BEEN AN ELEGANT PART OF JEWELRY SINCE THE 15TH CENTURY.

Thelma West: Rebel Black

KATKIM: Duét Pear Ring

Reinstein Ross: Leslie Teardrop Diamond Ring in 20K Peach Gold

Anita Ko: Princess Eternity Ring

Repossi: Serti Sur Vide Ring in Pink Gold

Maggi Simpkins: Sunburst Ring

Stephen Webster: Thorn Floating Solitaire Ring

Jade Trau: Sadie Solitaire Ring

A. M. Throne: Pear Diamond Ring

Forevermark: Portfolio by De Beers Forevermark™ Pear Halo Diamond Engagement Ring

Sauer: Anel Toi et Moi Diamante Amarelo

Vice Versa: Large Pear Shaped Diamond Meander Ring

Kwiat: Pear Shape Diamond Engagement Ring

Marquise

Legend has it that the marquise shape—which is a ship shape with rounded sides and a point at each end—was invented during the 18^th century reign of Louis XV. Supposedly, it was named in honor of the French king’s mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. Another version of the story ties the shape to the marquise shaped rings worn by courtiers at Versailles to flaunt their rank. Contemporary marquise cut diamonds, also known as navette shapes, have 58 facets and sparkle plenty. Today, marquise shapes are often set east-west with the end points going across the hand as opposed to up the finger. A north-south setting gives more of a vintage look.

CONTEMPORARY MARQUISE CUT DIAMONDS HAVE 58 FACETS AND SPARKLE PLENTY.

Jemma Wynne: Prive Diamond Marquis Ring

Anita Ko: Marquise Cut Diamond Ring

Jemma Wynne: Bespoke Canary Marquise Diamond Ring

Milamore: Kintsugi Diamond Ring

Kwiat: Marquise Diamond and Emerald Halo Ring

Harry Winston: Bridal Couture Marquise Diamond Engagement Ring

Rose Cut

Exotic rose cut diamonds have a domed surface covered with triangular facets. Some roses have facets rising to a point on top while others have a table or flat surface at the center. Most roses have a round silhouette or girdle but they are also made in different shapes like squares and pears. Invented during the 15^th century in India, the pretty shape with the poetic name is beginning to really blossom again as an alternative choice for engagement rings.

THE ROSE CUT WAS INVENTED DURING THE 15TH CENTURY IN INDIA.

Irene Neuwirth: Pavé Bezel Ring

Single Stone: Andie Ring

Karen Karch: Floating Star

Eva Fehren: The Gatsby

Michelle Fantaci: Cluster Ring

Me And Ro: Rose Cut Diamond Ring

Kwiat: Splendor Argyle Ring

Emerald

No shape more aptly fits the diamond nickname “ice” than the emerald cut. Developed in the 1920s Art Deco era, the confusing name evolved from the fact it was the most popular shape for emeralds at the time. Emerald cut diamonds are generally rectangular but they also come in square shapes. They have diagonally cut or chamfered corners. Long step cuts define all four sides. The large table on top of the stone shows off the clarity and color of a diamond more than its brilliance or sparkle. No matter whether the shape is set on a slender band or and placed in artistic angle in a bold gold ring, emeralds always maintain a high level of glamour.

EMERALD CUT DIAMONDS ALWAYS MAINTAIN A HIGH LEVEL OF GLAMOUR.

De Beers: DB Classic Emerald Cut Tapered Diamond Ring

Alison Lou: Emerald Cut Diamond Engagement Ring

Greenwich St. Jewelers: Ludlow 5.01ct Emerald Diamond Engagement Ring

Jemma Wynne: Bespoke Diamond Open Ring

Neil Lane Couture: Design Emerald Cut Diamond

Verdura: Lace Solitaire Ring with Emerald Cut Diamond

Van Cleef & Arpels: Eventails Solitaire

Selim Mouzannar: Mina Ivory Ring

Walters Faith: Thoby 18k Rose Gold Illusion Set Diamond East West Emerald Cut Ring

WWAKE: Monolith Emerald Cut Diamond Ring – Horizontal

Unique and Special Shapes

There are innumerable shapes to choose from for engagement rings beyond the 7 listed above. The word “modified” is often added to a shape’s name. It simply means the design is not exactly textbook. Instead, the lapidary made a few adjustments to get the most brilliance from a piece of rough.

Some jewelers, including Tiffany and David Yurman, who want to make an engagement ring a total expression of their style have designed their own proprietary diamond shape. This concept is relatively new. It began in the late 1990s. The debutante diamonds are often named after the jeweler who designed them.

Several historic and unusual shapes can also be found in engagement rings today. Asscher cuts are striking squares designed by Abraham Asscher around 1902. Heart shapes, rhomboids, portraits and facetted spheres evolve from uniquely shaped rough diamonds. They make for a very special way to celebrate your love.

UNIQUE AND SPECIAL DIAMOND SHAPES MAKE FOR A VERY SPECIAL WAY TO CELEBRATE YOUR LOVE.

Tiffany & Co: Tiffany True® Engagement Ring with Tiffany True® Diamond

David Yurman: DY Crossover® Capri Engagement Ring

Eva Fehren: The Fia

Shihara: Rhomboid Rings

Single Stone: Cassidy Ring

Marla Aaron: Kissing Spheres

Single Stone: Wyler Ring

Sophie Bille Brahe: Coeur Royal

Kwiat: Ashoka Diamond Engagement Ring with a Sapphire and Diamond Double Halo