Diamonds 101

The Evergreen Appeal of the Classic Closed Setting Jewellery

Mr. N. Anantha Padmanabhan, who leads legacy jewellery brand NAC Jewellers sheds light on what it is about the closed setting that has made it popular in the South Indian market.

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Closed setting diamond Jewellery Designs
Traditional craft meets modern designs. Natural diamond jewellery crafted using the closed setting. Earring (left) - Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers, necklace (centre) - Abaran, earring (right) - NAC Jewellers

That is your legacy when you leave the earth. The number of hearts you touched. 

– Patti Davis

The beauty of building something you believe in lies not just in its ability to give you the satisfaction of creating something meaningful, but also in having the opportunity to ignite joy in other peoples’ lives.

It is with this ideology and intention that my forefathers entered the jewellery designing business in 1917. Their hard work, fueled by their eternal passion for the craft, has led to the creation of a renowned jewellery brand with a legacy nurtured purely in trust and love.

With a body of work spanning over 100 glorious years, we’ve constantly aimed to reinvent ourselves to present our consumers with jewellery that is relevant to modern times by maintaining a design vocabulary that is classic yet trendy. One such glorious jewellery trend that has survived the change of the rhythm of time and fashion is the intricate craft of closed setting.

Closed setting diamond necklace

A natural diamond necklace crafted using the closed setting. Necklace: NAC Jewellers

Closed Setting At A Glance


This setting is available in 7 stone and 9 stone designs and is made using natural diamonds due to their timeless and sustainable appeal. Here is how the closed setting gets its glorious form and the ability to hold a real diamond in a secure embrace:

  1. The craftsman lays the base of the setting by intricately drawing small circles on a gold sheet.
  2. They then drill holes over the design layout where the diamonds can be added.
  3. Once the base of the ornament is laid, the craftsman inserts the drilled jewellery pieces into molten wax holders.
  4. They then manually insert the beautiful real diamonds into the drilled setting.
  5. To add lustre to the jewellery, the edges are sawed carefully.
  6. Lastly, their labour of love, the jewellery pieces are cleaned and polished to elevate their pristine shine.

Closed setting is a style of encasing natural diamonds in a gold foil so that no part of the stone below the girdle is exposed to light.

Just like every masterpiece, this setting is the result of persistence and patience, as it requires the artisan time to hand-cut the natural diamonds and set them into the underlying structure. It is this exquisite craftsmanship that has made this setting shine with popularity in South India.

Closed setting natural diamond set with ring, pendant and earring
A product of great precision and attention to detail. Ring (Top right & left) & pendant (Centre) – Abaran Timeless Jewellery, earring (Bottom) – Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers

Being raised in a family of jewellery designers, I was blessed with the opportunity to bear witness to the latest trends even before I set foot in the business. Ever since I remember, closed setting jewellery has never failed to be a bestseller. From being set as nose pins, ear studs and stiff chains, to adorning chokers, long chains, armlets and hip belts I have seen this trend evolving with the times. We also often come across couples who are attracted to this setting for their engagement rings because of its detailing.

With the youth of today making sustainable choices, this timeless setting has married Nature’s timeless creations, natural diamonds and made itself a bigger hit with our consumers.

One Jewel, Different Styles

The joy of adorning a jewel that you have so fondly bought, knows no bounds. It doubles when you get to wear it with different outfits. Be it a Kanjeevaram saree or a pantsuit, closed setting jewellery gives you the liberty to experiment with your style and remains your companion through it all. Contemporary, yet traditional, this style of jewellery is timeless and the perfect addition to your wardrobe – for today and tomorrow – to pass down to your future generations as a precious modern heirloom.

Closed setting modern natural diamond bangles and necklace
The closed setting finding a modern interpretation in natural diamond bangles and necklaces. Necklace (top left), bangles (top right and bottom) – Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers

No Hassle, Only Shine

Often at the store, I find that the current and old generations alike gravitate towards the closed setting. After asking a consumer why she liked this setting, she told me that this natural diamond jewellery is fashionable as well as hassle-free to maintain – you can use just soap and water to clean it and it looks as good as new. The diamonds also remain protected, preserving their longevity and eternal sparkle. This conversation made me realise the universal appeal of this setting. 

While consistently striving towards growth and adapting to the times, you never fail to be relevant and this has helped NAC build a legacy of 100 years. Similarly, the closed setting has managed to win the hearts of several generations with its unique design, building a legacy of its own. 

Whether you’re a jewelry aficionado, a hopeful suitor, or just someone who loves a bit of bling, this chart is your map to understanding the lingo of the natural diamond world. Like the unique characteristics that a natural diamond possesses, this dictionary is a one-of-a-kind gem!

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